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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I'm new to the site and need some help, I've been running halogens forever and I'm totally sick of the noise from a generator. I'm from alabama and do most of my fishing in pretty clear water so I think LEDs would be a good choice. I want to run 5 50watt LEDs to see if I like them, but I don't kno if I shud parallel two 12v batteries or series them to make it 24v, and with two batteries I shud get at least 5 hours out of them right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info I'm not much of an electrician, is running them together to make 24v gonna give me the same amount of time per night as 12v? And what kind of batteries would be the best to run with?
 

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24V will give a bit longer run time, do to the lower amps drawn. Most guys use 27's or 29 series batts, I run 31 series batteries in my boat. My lights are hooked 12V , with 1 31 series I get 3 1\4 hours of silent time before I notice some dimming.That battery has 185 reserve. I run 8 27W's & 2 40W's LED's. I run the same size battery for my troller motor, which I have 2 31 series total ( 1 for lights, 1 for troller). Plus I run 2 55amp Powermax Converters w\ 2500W Inverter Genny. My geeny has the noise rating of 60db's pretty quiet. One thing to remember is ( I dont know what size is your boat) a battery on the average is 50 plus lbs & up, mulitables will increase the weight in your boat quickly. Every boat has its weight limit "weight capacity" keep that in mind. Wiring in series you wire batteries together in series you will increase the voltage while keeping the amp hour capacity the same. Wiring the batteries together in parallel has the effect of doubling the capacity while keeping the voltage the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys I will definately be running them in series now, don do u like ur set-up? I mean wud u recommend 2 50w and 6 27w or u think I'd be better off with 5 50w the way I was goin? Like I said I'm in alabama and where I fish is usually pretty clear water, and my boat can handle the weight I don't really fish tournaments so I've always rigged my aluminum bass boat up for bowfishing...it's just a passion I've always been shooting bows since I was 6, so the two batteries is no prob
 

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yes I like my set up very much, 2 reason why I have it, first my boat is a 14-48 so weight will be a issue for me, second is I want the best of both running silent & having the capability of charging my batteries on the water. Lighting is something "you" will choose. The 50's would be ideal, but if you want silent all and weight wont be a issue for your boat, more batteries the better, and larger batteries are best 31's. But not all 31's are equal, some only have 150 reserve, mine both have 185 reserve. Look for batteries that give you max reserve. I like my converters but again your dealing with a genny, I started off with a Gentron Inverter 2000W, sold it got a Champion 3500W great genny super reliable but noisy, kept it, bought a Honda 2000w liked it but wasnt enough watts ran fast all the time, sold it, bought this one (current) ETQ Inverter Genny 2500W/2200W, owned it for a year and never had a lick of problems, pretty quiet, plenty of power, I keep it on eco mode all the time starts on the 2nd pull.

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My batteries for my lights & troller and under the rear bench along with my 2 55amp Powermax converters, I just plug in both converter plus into that 4 gang outlet box and plug the cord into the genny sitting on the rear bench. For me 2 batteries are cheaper to replace than 4 or 6 batteries, plus 2 converters are easy to store than 4 to 6 batteries. I (for me) had to look at all this because of the size of my boat, weight , balance (weight distribution) are factors for me. Good luck in your search

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One thing to remember the 50's will give you exceptional coverage, they just pull more amps. Rule of thumb, what ever the wire recommendation is whether 12V or 24V jump up to the next size. Example is my lights are 12V I ran 10ga. Use Marine Bus Bar's (lefts & rights pos. & neg). I have for neg & pos side of my lights, (left side right side) I also use troller motor plugs (left side & right side) that come from the bus bar to the switch, this way I can unplug what ever side of the light wiring and remove my deck (in halves) to work on more electrical or add more electrical.

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My deck is built in havles, done this for a few reason, I can work on either side of my lights, remove 6 stainless steel screws (coated in black teflon moly) lift up unplug and set a side. The edges of both havles have a neoprene gasket that make a good water tight seal. I put a lot of thought into my boat......ease of working on, weight, balance, ease of moving around.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok I will remember that, I had thought about running one hot wire and negative all the way aroun the front and soldering the lights onto them. Is this a bad idea?
 

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marine bus bars will do the same thing but with out the problem that will acure. Plus it is a clean & neat way to do your wiring. You can buy bus bars on ebay for 17.00

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Sea-2301-130A-AC-150A-DC-Common-BusBar-Marine-RV-Bus-Bar-10-Position-/330928975753?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item4d0ce76f89&vxp=mtr

wiring is one thing you dont want to cut corners on. The term "viking funeral" electrical wiring goes up very quickly, 12V or 24V. Soldering & shrink wrap is great idea, your conntection from light to add lenght on the wire. All my wires are done this way as of adding lenght to them soldering & shrink wrapped. I had a master electrican help me on my wiring, he a good friend, I learnt alot from this, I have fuse panel also with correct size fuses, I dont want NO issues on the water with myself, my family or friend. Wiring isnt one to cut corners on. Theirs lots of basic wiring guides on the internet (correct wiring guides). I've seen some boat that were a viking funeral waiting to happen and would stepo foot on a boat like that. Some I've seen under wired, some of a mix podged of wires (different sizes) all because they didnt want or had the proper funds to do it right, and some of the lamest excuses used why their boats or wiring was done the way they done them......I've seen some of the neatest boat I've seen on Bowfishing Country, Kuger, Carp Commander, Jeffm20, hotrodderscott, mudfish. These boat gave me the ideas to do mine. I've pmed alot of these guys and picked their brain.
 

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Hi everyone,

Here is the solution you seem to be looking to eliminate LED reflection as I keep seeing this come up. Very common problem! Goto ebay and type in "Carplite" in the main search box. They sell HPS or Green colored filter covers for 50W LED lights. Also have Custom sizes if needed for other types of light frame sizes. I used them and made a world of difference. I bought one at first just to try out and bought ten after that. Got the best worlds of using LEDs with the color of HPS to better penetrate the water and reduce glare. They are made from transparent plexiglass so much much more durable than tint/film. And you can easily remove these in seconds if you want the bright light back for clear water. Much cheaper alternative than going HPS with all the extra bulbs, capaitors, genny, difficult wiring and weight, etc. Hope this helps, just wanted to share what I have found to everyone who had the same issues I had.

Here is the link:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xcarplite.TRS0&_nkw=carplite&_sacat=0

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