LED Power source
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Good to know. Preciate it bud. Ill be running a larger wire to save from having to buy a new battery.
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You should be able to run for a long time with those lights on one battery. If you ever want more run time just hook a second one up in parallel series and you'll stay 12v.
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These are the ones I bought
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009AQSCQE/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1360254679&sr=8-2π=SL75
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009AQSCQE/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1360254679&sr=8-2π=SL75
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To clear up things...
at 12v for 5 - 27 watt LED your run time will be about 3 - 5 hours
at 24v for 5 - 27 watt LED your run time will be about 10 - 13 hours
There is no different wires to rig up... I have provided a diagram for reference and also I wish I would have gotten to you sooner because I have special pricing for bowfishing community and also way better lights than amazon.
at 12v for 5 - 27 watt LED your run time will be about 3 - 5 hours
at 24v for 5 - 27 watt LED your run time will be about 10 - 13 hours
There is no different wires to rig up... I have provided a diagram for reference and also I wish I would have gotten to you sooner because I have special pricing for bowfishing community and also way better lights than amazon.
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The reason they run 2X as long on 24v is because it requires 2 12v batteries to create a 24v system. If you hook up 2 batteries as 12v you will get the same run time as the 24v system. It has been proven time and time again that the only difference between 12v and 24v is wire size.
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Your correct if your running one bank at a time. I run 8 - 27 watt floods on my little boat. With 2 batteries in 24v I get over 10 hours of battery. If I would run 12v in parelell I would basically get the same run time as one battery but it just wouldnt dim the lower it got. 24v is the way to go for LED's. It takes the pounding amperage off the LED's (which makes them last longer) and it also gives you longer run time. And the best part is you can still just 12v off the one battery for your troller or 12v accesory.
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I don't mean to argue but power is power. For example you have 2 12v 100ah batteries.
You hook them up in parallel you will keep the 12v but double your capacity to 200ah. Lights run this way will draw more current(reason for larger wire) and drain the capacity(ah) twice as fast.
You hook them up in a series your voltage is doubles to 24v while your capacity remains at 100ah. Lights looked up like this will draw 1/2 the current as the lights on 12v system (allowing smaller gauge wire) but the capacity is half as much as the 12v system.
This all results in an equal runtime and the only advantage is the use of smaller gauge wire on a 24v system.
Now i don't know a lot about LEDs but I do know some are made to handle 12v better and others 24v.
You hook them up in parallel you will keep the 12v but double your capacity to 200ah. Lights run this way will draw more current(reason for larger wire) and drain the capacity(ah) twice as fast.
You hook them up in a series your voltage is doubles to 24v while your capacity remains at 100ah. Lights looked up like this will draw 1/2 the current as the lights on 12v system (allowing smaller gauge wire) but the capacity is half as much as the 12v system.
This all results in an equal runtime and the only advantage is the use of smaller gauge wire on a 24v system.
Now i don't know a lot about LEDs but I do know some are made to handle 12v better and others 24v.
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Just want to throw something in here. I am a LED flashlight nerd. I know that batteries for high power LED flashlights generally show their capacity at different draw rates (amps). Many batteries, most notably lead acid and alkaline, have lower capacities when you have higher draw rates. So, it's entirely possible that, depending on the battery used (and assuming that a 24v system will draw less current, a dual battery 24v system could outlast a dual battery 12v system. If you are using really high end car batteries like Optima, Stinger, or Diehard Platinum, the advantage may very well go away.
It's also worth saying that deep cycle marine batteries are specifically designed to run an low current for long durations. That's both an advantage and disadvantage for them. They don't deal well with high current. On the other hand, Cranking Amp batteries will deal well with higher current applications and will probably actually last longer even though their Ah rating is lower.
It's also worth saying that deep cycle marine batteries are specifically designed to run an low current for long durations. That's both an advantage and disadvantage for them. They don't deal well with high current. On the other hand, Cranking Amp batteries will deal well with higher current applications and will probably actually last longer even though their Ah rating is lower.
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Nuff I get what your saying but the lights I sell fraw just over 1 amp per light at 12v. At 24v they draw .6 amps. So when it comes to LED's 24v will give you longer run time hands down. Now if you were to go old school with some halogen work lights what your saying would be correct. And Aaron I have found that the "Everstart" batteries from walmart work better than the Deka batteries I used to run for LEDs. 115amp hour battery for $75. I'm still thinking bout getting one of those high-end deep cycles that have the 6 cylinders and the batteries are white with a blue top on them. looking at over $200 a battery but one of those could run 10 - 27 watts for almost 15 hours. If i'm not mistaken I saw one that was almost 350 amp hours for a little over $200. Expensive but would save you a lot of hassle with so many batteries.
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If you have a battery distributer near you like Interstate go there. I go to the Interstate battery warehouse by my house to get all my batteries. I ask them for blemishes. Usually they have them and all they are are batteries with cosmetic damage. (no handle, deformed molding, minor dent, ect.) I got 2 marine deep cycles for my boat that are regular $120 a piece for $110 total.
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I dont have one locally. The Everstarts are good batteries and you can take them back with-in 2 years and get a new one for free.
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The Blue and White battery is an Optima. They make good stuff.
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Haha. Yeah I couldn't think of the name. They make GREAT stuff!!! :thumbsu:
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I have had Optimas before, I loved it, would hold a charge forever, but as soon as it got killed one time, it was done for. Battery went down hill quick. After the 4th one i quit using them.
For the money they cost i would have liked to see it last a full discharge and be back to 100% time and time again!
My exp was with the Optima red tops btw.
New guy here Ill add my 2 cent as a master electrician and a guy who has designed and built my own LED lights on my boat.
No tryve to argue, but the diagram posted isnt right. LEDs need to be wired in parallel not series. Meaning all positive to + and all negative to -.
As for batteries, there are some somewhat small advantages to running higher voltage in series. Mainly the fact that batteries inherently vary in strength and lifespan. So when connected in parallel, one battery will often drain the other to equalize their potential. Where as being connected in series the potentials are simply added together. Another is higher voltages lower amp draw, which results in lower wire resistance losses.
For me, these factors and that my troller is 24v makes using 24v for my LEDs a no brainer.
No tryve to argue, but the diagram posted isnt right. LEDs need to be wired in parallel not series. Meaning all positive to + and all negative to -.
As for batteries, there are some somewhat small advantages to running higher voltage in series. Mainly the fact that batteries inherently vary in strength and lifespan. So when connected in parallel, one battery will often drain the other to equalize their potential. Where as being connected in series the potentials are simply added together. Another is higher voltages lower amp draw, which results in lower wire resistance losses.
For me, these factors and that my troller is 24v makes using 24v for my LEDs a no brainer.
Im not sure exactly what you mean wiring up to terminals.
Not tryin to argue but LEDs are meant to have 12-24v applied to each light(or 120vac if applicable), which is a prallel circuit if more than one light is on the circuit. If in series they will be dimmer if work at all as the circuit is changed considerably from spec as the current is "shared".
parallel diagram
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.ilambretta.com/extras/spotlight5.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.ilambretta.com/extras.html&h=403&w=575&sz=12&tbnid=v-7ZfltkGVklrM:&tbnh=84&tbnw=120&zoom=1&usg=__1xU2uX7wqiVjh6V7MmZvwsAJOtY=&docid=sA6zR_FwZRGWKM&sa=X&ei=UHlpUfqfEoWLqwH49ICgCw&ved=0CDUQ9QEwAQ&dur=8751
Not tryin to argue but LEDs are meant to have 12-24v applied to each light(or 120vac if applicable), which is a prallel circuit if more than one light is on the circuit. If in series they will be dimmer if work at all as the circuit is changed considerably from spec as the current is "shared".
parallel diagram
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.ilambretta.com/extras/spotlight5.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.ilambretta.com/extras.html&h=403&w=575&sz=12&tbnid=v-7ZfltkGVklrM:&tbnh=84&tbnw=120&zoom=1&usg=__1xU2uX7wqiVjh6V7MmZvwsAJOtY=&docid=sA6zR_FwZRGWKM&sa=X&ei=UHlpUfqfEoWLqwH49ICgCw&ved=0CDUQ9QEwAQ&dur=8751
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